Tools and Tips

Tools and materials required:
The correct amount and type of Nu-GlazeR profile lengths
Nu-GlazeR Neutral Cure Silicone cartridges, 1 per every 25 – 30m of glazing, but have some extra for in case
Hammer
Flat screwdriver 2-3mm wide
An old, but sharp 22mm chisel
Caulking gun
Cleaning cloths/rags
Hack saw or small craft saw
Nu-GlazeR Miter BuddyR – a 45, 50 and 60 degree version.
Utility knife and some spare blades
Sandpaper – 80 to 120 grit
Scrapers – those that holds an utility blade works best
Paint/primer/varnish if necessary.
HB Pencil
Glass/panel – cut 5mm smaller (on all 4 sides) than the frame rebate, as per normal glazing standards. Test for size and squareness by placing glass/panel into the frame. Thickness can vary from 2mm to 7mm, depending on the type of application and Nu-GlazeR  profile that have been chosen.

A few extra tips:

If you think you will want to paint the profiles a different colour than white somewhere in the future, it would be wise to give each profile a light sanding with a very fine grit sanding paper to provide a very slight key and then to apply a coat of PVC Primer (available at any hardware or paint store).  The primer normally comes in white, as does Nu-GlazeR, so it will not spoil the appearance. Once the primer has dried sufficiently, you can proceed to apply as from step 4.   Painting and/or priming can be done at any stage afterwards as well. Just make sure there is no silicone on the surfaces you want to paint afterwards. Paint does not bind on silicone. Alternatively, Polyurethane can be used instead of silicone.

If the glass/panel breaks, first remove all loose shards, then slowly and carefully lift and pull the outside/vertical profile up and away from the frame while cutting at the silicone that keeps it. Once all 4 the profiles have been removed, one can rub/remove the silicone further until the frame rebate is clean enough to receive the new silicone. The same applies to the profile, it can be rubbed/scraped cleaned of the old, dried silicone until reasonably clean and if it was not damaged, it can be re-used very effectively. One can use a Silicone stripper as well, please test on a small, inconspicuous area.

PVC can be cleaned best with a bit of luke warm water with a dash of soft dish washing detergent on a soft, damp cloth. To clean any excess silicone that may have ended up on the glass, use methylated spirits, avoiding contact with the PVC profiles. Care should be taken NOT to use any of the following : acetone, benzene, aromatic and chlorinated hydrocarbons, ketones, nitro compounds, esters and cyclic ethers. For your own good, do a bit of research on your cleaning agent and test on a small, inconspicuous area to see the reaction before you destroy your lovely new glazing job.

Any dents and cracks on the PVC outer surface can be repaired with PVC Epoxy weld that are available at any/most hardware stores.

Lastly and very importantly: This job should take the average DIY person a very short time, it would be best to place a cold one in the fridge long before the job starts, otherwise it won’t be cold enough once needed!

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