How it Works…

Currently Nu-Glaze comprises of two sizes of profiles. S-profile for larger (typically steel or concrete window and/or door frames and W-profile (typically wooden windows) for smaller frames. On the S-profile, one can use the U-Clip, depending on the frame size and on the W-profile, one can use the inside corner to pin down the assembly if used on a wooden frame. We are constantly researching and developing new profiles for different applications or for special requests.

The full installation method: After the profiles were measured and mitered (it’s good practice to have the verticals overlap the horizontals – hence the verticals at 45 and horizontals at 50 or 60 degrees), a thin (3mm diameter) bead of silicone is deposited as deep into the receiving groove in the profile as possible. Slide/insert the profiles, one by one, onto the glass, center and in the correct position. A 4-5mm diameter bead of silicone is now deposited onto the frame, right into the 90 degree inside angle. Place a bit more in each of the four corners and wherever water may find it’s way through. The completed assembly is then placed and pressed firmly into the frame rebate. Wipe off excess silicone and make sure all openings are covered with silicone to prevent water ingress. Clips can be used to retain the assembly in the frame for a day or two until the silicone has cured. The clips can stay in place or be removed.

See the Specifications page for the features of the PVC and Nu-Glaze silicone.

Retro glazing (wood or steel frames):
Old, cracked putty can be removed by cutting the remaining putty away, using a utility/carpet knife. Please take care not to put pressure on the glass. You can use an old chisel as well, using light taps to dislodge the putty. There is some risk in breaking the glass by removing it, but if one works patiently and slow enough, it can be avoided. We have tested a few different electric hand-tools that cuts by vibrating at high speed, and it works very well in removing old putty in the shortest possible time.

After the glass is removed, it must be cleaned and inspected for chips or cracks in which case, it is advisable to replace the glass. Also ensure a 5 mm space between the frame and glass all around as per normal glazing principles. After the frame has been cleaned and suitably prepared (primed and/or painted and allowed to dry), glazing can be done as per the Video / How to page.

The Frontal Replacement method: In case it’s neither necessary nor advisable to remove the glass, a special feature of Nu-Glaze allows one to break/tear off the outside/frontal part that forms a triangle so that after removing the old, cracked outside putty only, one can silicone this section unto the glass/frame, forming the new sealing beading. The same mitering principles applies as per the full installation method.

New glazing:
As per Video or How to page.

Wood:
The same as above applies, but sometimes it would be wooden beading strips to be removed instead of putty. However, the same principles applies. Measure the rebate and chose the correct Nu-Glaze profile. Do not apply silicone to freshly oiled frames or wet, freshly varnished surfaces, as it will not grip.

Concrete/polycrete:
Remove any loose and flaky material, glaze as per Video/How to page. Apply some pressure on the finished glazing job for a few minutes since there would be no retaining clips, depending on the frame rebate.

On any type of frame, please ensure that the frame is always dry, dust and loose particle free since that would jeopardize the silicone’s adhesive power.

When using sharp tools, blades and electric tools such as grinders and cutters, always wear the appropriate safety equipment and take the necessary precautions.

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